Hiking in Europe - Germany

If you’re new to multi-day hikes and looking to go on a holiday, combine the two and head to the southwest of Germany to experience the best of the large, famous, forested mountain range: Schwarzwald (Black Forest).

Source: Hungry For Holiday

Aptly named for the densely-packed, towering evergreens that block out the majority of sunlight, giving the forest a dark appearance. Fun fact: this is the setting the Brother’s Grimm used for the fairytales Hansel and Gretel, Sleeping Beauty and Rapunzel.

The Westweg (West Way) is 280km long and is usually broken up over 12 stages from Pforzheim in Germany to Basel in Switzerland, marked by a black-outlined red rhombus on a white field. The trail is not technically challenging, but it does require good endurance and in some sections includes steep ascents and descents which provide panoramic views once you reach the highest peak of Feldberg Mountain. 

At the very start of the Westweg in Pforzheim is a large Golden Gate, signifying the beginning of the German Hiking Association quality-approved hike. These gates are at the start of every section so it’s near impossible to miss the beginning of each of the 12 stages.

Stage 1:  25km, 862m elevation gain (EG), Pforzheim to Dobel: at the halfway point, you’ll pass through Neuenbürg and be able to take a break and visit the castle Schloss Neuenbürg from 1200.

Stage 2:  22km, 616m EG, Dobel to Forbach: some of the trails in this section are paved or have gravel, so be sure to have some comfy shoes or boots with a stone guard. 

Stage 3:  20km, 1140m EG, Forbach to Unterstmatt: a big day of climbing and considered one of the toughest sections to complete. Be sure to take breaks and have camp shoes when you finish for the day.

Stage 4:  28km, 952m EG, Unterstmatt to Alexanderschanze: this section is much closer to civilisation featuring a few huts with restaurants and the last half of the trail runs alongside a scenic highway. Could be a good time to enjoy some Shokz headphones.

Stage 5:  17km, 488m EG, Alexanderschanze to Harkhof: narrow dirt paths leading to panoramic valley views. Need we say more.

Stage 6:  15km, 471m EG, Harkhof to Hausach: take in the view from the tower at Brandenkopf and then prepare for the steep descent into Hausach.

Stage 7:  21km, 1431m EG, Hausach to Wilhelmshöhe: the elevation gain here comes from steep uphills rather than gradual inclines. If you haven’t already, this might be a good section to utilise hiking poles.

Stage 8:  22km, 757m EG, Wilhelmshöhe to Kalte Herberge: fun fact, ‘Herberge’ translates to ‘hostel’ and the trail gate for stage 8 is made of large stone boulders.

Stage 9:  26km, 767m EG, Kalte Herberge to Hinterzarten: the Wanderheim Berghäusle towards the end of the stage is apparently known for its cakes, so make sure you don’t eat all of your trail snacks before you arrive. 

Stage 10:  29km, 1082m EG, Hinterzarten to Wiedener Eck: the hike to Feldberg is gradual and the paths are well maintained. The views from Feldberg are panoramic and can be enjoyed from the world’s largest tree recliner, known as a Baumliege. 

Stage 11:  32km, 1154m EG, Wiedener Eck to Kandern: two of the famed Black Forest peaks Belchen and Blauen are conquered today and with them come some steep climbs.

Stage 12:  26km, 674m EG, Kandern to Basel: the Wolf Gorge made from limestone cliffs begins the change in the forest for this final stage. There is more concrete path towards the end of the trail and greeting you at the end are ruins of Rötteln castle and mountain-side vineyards.

As you might guess for the area you can walk through dense forests of towering trees, but also meadows and small villages which are steeped in heritage and the region’s folklore of fairytales. 

Due to the proximity to villages, the different sections are easily accessible and accommodation is widely available along the route, opening up multiple opportunities to try the legendary Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Gateau). 

If unique food and beverage experiences are something that enriches your hike, then be sure to check out the 14km circuit in Oberkirche which visits family-run distilleries and includes some 24/7 Schnapps tastings. This runs on an honour system, so be sure to have change with you. Bottles of schnapps are left in water troughs to keep cool and clean, empty glasses are available for travellers to sample the produce. There are several points along the trail though, so be sure to be mindful of your intake, especially in the heat, and make sure you have plenty of water. 

The Westweg is ideal for runners or hikers who prefer shorter day trips or are looking to increase their long-distance hiking ability, making spring through autumn ideal times to walk the way. Winter can often bring snow and freezing temperatures, however if you have the right idea and gear, this shouldn’t stop you from experiencing the magic of hiking in a winter wonderland. If hiking during summer, there are also several rivers for a refreshing swim, however Lake Titisee is most popular. 

For accommodation, there are bread and breakfast options, self-catering apartments, hotels, guesthouses and designated camp sites. Wild camping is not strictly forbidden and while there are no campsites along the way, it is possible to sleep in basic cabins known as ‘Unterstandshütten’.

While the Westweg is not made for racing, there are several half and full marathon events in the Black Forest region (most notable is the Schwarzwald marathon) as well as mountain-biking events.